The annual journey by pilgrims keeps history and beliefs alive

Kyaw Zaw Oo

Myanmar is often described as the land of pagodas and legends. Some say "come to Myanmar and point your finger at any direction you like – you will always be pointing at a pagoda." And each pagoda has its legend handed down from one generation to the next.

Each pagoda has an annual festival, and at such festivals vendors arrive from all directions to sell their wares. Long winding rows of temporary stalls built of bamboo and thatch blossom forth with colourful goods. The profits earned by the stalls are a source of income for the upkeep and repair of the pagodas.

The annual festivals of some famous pagodas are celebrated for about a month by a continuous influx of visitors. Except May, June and July, pilgrimage teams are visiting the pagodas throughout the country.

Famous religious destinations are Shwedgon in Yangon, Shwesettaw in Minbu Township of Magwe Division, Maha-Myat-Muni Buddha Image, Taung-byone and Mount Popa in Mandalay Division, Kyaikhtiyo in Mon State and Alaungtaw Katthapa in Sagaing Division. Among them, Shwesettaw, Mount Popa and Alungdaw Kathapa have already been designated as wild life sanctuaries. And the way to Taung-byone nat festival reveals a typical Myanmar rural area. At the head of the list of pilgrim tours of the year is the greatest ‘nat’ festival of Taung-byone, held in Taung-byone village, 8 mile north of Mandalay.

In addition to Theravada Buddhism, common Myanmar people believe in 37 traditional nats or deities. Among them, two brothers spirits known as Min Gyi and Min Galay are said to have been granted a permanent home at Taung-byone village by King Anawrahtar in the 11th century. After ‘Taung-byone and upcountry itineraries’ in August, there comes the Malun rice-donation celebration in Mandalay in September and people travel there visiting religious destinations all along the way.

In November, pilgrimage agents arrange package tours to the famed Taungyi hot-air balloon festival with visits to pagodas along the way in central Myanmar and Shan State. By November, people start visiting Kyaikhtiyo Pagoda in Mon State. The pagoda is well known for its position atop a large boulder, precariously perched on the edge of 3600-foot high Lontin mountain about 100 miles east of Yangon. Some enjoy taking the eight-mile footpath journey up and down the densely forested hills, however most pilgrims take a bus ride up to the nearest camp and walk the remaining mile to reach the pagoda.

As Bagan was the heart of the 11th century Myanmar Kingdom, over 2000 pagodas and stupas can be found there. A cave in Alaungdaw Kathapa wild life sancturary is said to be the place where a relic body of an arahat or an austered monk who had achieved enlightenment. People go there to present some alms-food in respect for the monk. Leisurely time off work, beautiful scenery along the way and the religious fulfilment on seeing the pagodas are some of the reasons why Myanmar pilgrims travel a long way to visit their chosen pagodas.

They usually visit many pagodas even though they are going to a certain religious monument to pay homage. Even though they are going to the hot-air balloon festival in Taung-gyi, they visit the pagodas on the way to and from and in the vicinity of Taung-gyi. Although Theravada Buddhism is professed by more than 85 per cent of the country’s population, Animism is deeply-rooted in customs and beliefs of common Myanmar people.

A famous haunt for Myanmar holidaymakers is Mount Popa, with its pantheon of Myanmar nats or deities, represented in sculptures in many parts of the mountain. Each deity has its own background story and many stories are inter-related. These nats are nothing to do with devas mentioned in Buddhists Scriptures. Mount Popa is an extinct volcano, situated 40 miles south of Bagan, Myanmar’s ancient city and living treasure-house of Buddhist architectural beauty. The mountain rises to 4981 feet above sea level.

The chief deity of Mount Popa, Min Mahagiri or Lord of the Great Mountain, has dominion over every family ‘who has a roof over their head’, according to legend.  Once a year there is a large outing organised, and thousands of pilgrims make the journey to the mountaintop at that time.